Oberammergau, Pürschling, Laubeneck

Stunning vistas across the beautiful, famous village of Oberammergau and the Linder river valley, which is home to world-renowned Linderhof castle, from a sheer endless ridge-line trail are the best features of this route. On the other hand, the trails are highly technical and dangerously exposed in places featuring quite a few steep climbs. For most, but very advanced technical runners, it will be more hike than run with only a short section enabling true trail-running flow, which is why it’s not rated as one of my favorites. Taking your time and embracing it as a hike / run combo makes the experience very worthwhile.

Starting on the edge of Oberammergau from a tiny, free parking area, a steep trail soon begins a tough climb through dense forest up the Kofel, a vertical rock face towering high above the tranquil Ammer river valley (the path along the river around the Kofel is an easier, though longer, alternative). The final climb to the ridge just below the summit (optional detour to climb up to the top) is an example of the maximum level of difficulty you will face later along the Sonnenberggrat. Definitely out of breath by now, the Königssteig provides relief with the best, flow-running experience of the route.

The bliss lasts all the way to figuratively named Zahn (tooth) mountain where the highly technical Sonnenberggrat, which is signposted as “Alpine Danger !”, begins along the ridge. The views across the Linder river valley are magnificent, but over large stretches of the partially secured route running looked too dangerous to me – a more leisurely hike, however is very doable.

At the Pürschlinghaus there is a chance to stretch your legs and have a drink, while admiring König Ludwig‘s royal hunting lodge that rests precariously perched on top of a rock. The trail continues westwards less exposed, but still quite technical for an almost endlessly extendable loop. I cut across to the return track on the opposite side of the ridge line near Hennenkopf mountain. The north-facing side still sports patches of snow in late spring and trails may become quite muddy during wet weather.

The great trail back to Pürschlinghaus offers monumental views and is moderately technical. Along alpine pastures a wide track leads back down towards Oberammergau, interrupted by another stretch of excellent flow trail along the Kofelsteig. Before visiting the village, famous for its wood-carving art, Lüftlmalerei (elaborate, traditional frescoes) and its once-a-decade performance of the Passion Play, the clear, shallow, and ice-cold Ammer invites to take a refreshing dunk.